8000a serial number

Search Everywhere Threads This forum This thread. Search titles only. Search Advanced search…. Everywhere Threads This forum This thread. Search Advanced…. More options Share this page Share this page Share.

Find Posts New Posts. Install the app. Amplifiers Solid State. JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Great combination for the cost. Did not have any sonic signature, just transparency. Mark in Worcester. You will be well rewarded if you recap the A or sent it for servicing. I suspect the early grey fascia A that I bought new and still use regularly might well benefit from it by now.

I use it as a pre-amp powering my SX. Thank you. Sunday, September 12, Audiolab A serial number with 'F'. Took the opportunity to capture a 30second video to show the results, using my basic digital camera. Had the A, moved on to C and P and eventually M's. Ended up selling the rest and left with only M's now However, this is because I eventually moved on to Tag McLaren stuff The A serial number will tell you its approximate age.

The colour of the case and front plate also. Basically black is the colour to have, serial numbers of D upwards is good. The serial numbers do denote slight revision, the original grey A had no alphabets in the serial number, followed by A, B, D, E and finally F just before Tag McLaren took over. I don't know if they ever had a C serial number. Now that Audiolab's as a brand is being revived by IAG, maybe they'll continue on with the serial numbering system?

Who knows? Good as the A is, it was superceded by the S integrated. The A remains a classic though, very reliable, well built and sounds good too! I still have it but don't use it any more Didn't realise there was such a following of the Audiolab!

Matblack, slightly OT, how is ur Marantz connected to the a? Marantz Pre-Out through the standard inputs; tape1, tape2, tunner, cd, video on the a?

In the 10 years or so since I bought my A, it has never been switched off. In addition to CD listening, I too am using it to drive the front speakers of my home cinema, via the L-R pre-outs on my AV amp connected to the "Video" input on the Audiolab although any of the line level inputs will do.

The A is probably the best piece of kit I have ever owned - love it! This thread has revived my interest in bolting on an P power amp. Anyone have any tips where to buy, guide prices, etc.

Also could anyone advise on the following: Does the addition of the P mean the A is used purely as a pre-amp, or can the power stage of the A still be used also, so that I can bi-amp my speakers with both amps? If the bi-amp option is the case, am I correct in assuming that I should connect the bass drivers of the speakers to the P rather than to the A? Hi, before I had the Tag Pre10, I had an a model which after a couple of years I added the px which is bassically the last p to. Although the power rating is different 60W vs W the signal gain is the same.

This time it sounded very different with more bass and a more effortless sound but a bit softer and lacking the detail and precision of the Bi-Wired setup, which I went back to. Hope this helps. Can I ask what connections you made? I have an HK and was wondering about using the preouts. What are your ancilaries connected to?

I have cd player as well dvd and sky box. I found one issue with this set up, it seems to be suceptable to ground loop hum, removing the earth from the plug sorts this out although it might not be the most sensible idea from a health an safety point of view [gulp] MB. Lifting the earth connection should always be seen as a last resort in solving hum problems,although there is no doubt that in some cases it does solve the problem.

You have to ensure that there is at the very least a suitable earth path via the equipment remaining,and also,most importantly,to remember that the connection was put there in the first place for electrical safety.

The only exception is double insulated equipment many current receivers included which may not be fitted with an earth i. Thank you MB. So you are effectively using the Matrantz as a processor? Do you connect all your ancilaries to the Marantz including sub? Cant you get further advice re the hum loop? I do feed my CD player straight to the Audiolab as that requires no post processing and get the full benefit of a short delivery path and no being passed through the Marantz's circuits.